Category Archives: Schematics

An Improved VTVM Battery Eliminator

One of the disheartening things about buying an older (…well, they’re ALL older, now…) VTVM is opening it up and finding either an old, leaky battery, or evidence of one. This usually damages or destroys the battery contacts and sometimes also the circuit board. The battery, usually a standard 1.5V C-cell, is necessary for measuring resistances with the ‘ohms’ scale.

A great improvement has been suggested over the past couple of years to replace the battery entirely, using a modern voltage regulator, drawing power from the filament circuit. A version of this has been available on several Heathkit lists and I’ve used it in my V-7A and IM-18. This replaces the battery and removes the risk of leakage.

More recently, Peter Bertini, Pop Comm Magazine (and others) have pointed out that the circuit used an inefficient half-wave rectifier, probably adding stress to the (already old) VTVM’s transformer.

If, in ‘ohms’ mode, the probes are touched together (0.0 ohms resistance), the entire 1.55 Volts is placed across a 9.1Ω resistor, resulting in the maximum current draw of (I=V/R), or 1.55/9.1 = 170ma. This doesn’t count diode loss and heat loss in the voltage regulator.

The following circuit attempts to repair the inefficiencies and addresses ripple filtering in the regulator, so as to provide an efficient and accurate VTVM Battery Eliminator.

An Improved VTVM Battery Eliminator

The input is from the 6.3VAC filament circuit. The output goes to the same locations as the original dry-cell battery. In the case of a Heathkit V-7A, this is 0.0 to VTVM ground, and the +1.55VDC to the ‘free end’ of the 9.1Ω resistor (see a schematic at http://www.heathkit.nu/heathkit_nu_V-7A.html). More detail and a (somewhat better) solution for Heathkit’s grounded filament supply available here.

“Most Accurate” SB-630 Update

Updated (and hopefully, finished) the SB-630 update.

All Tubes and the Plate-Filament transformer were removed (and saved, for future tube projects). The clock was given to a local collector who prefers to keep his Heathkits original. The functionality replaced – and enhanced – by adding a Real-Time Clock (RTC) chip, a WWVB receiver and Arduino code to interpret the 1950’s era clock signal.

The WWVB receiver reads each ‘pulse’ of the signal and interrupts the Arduino (INT1) to add the ‘tick’ to the buffer. Once the whole signal is recieved, it can be interpreted as a date and time. The RTC pulses (INT0) each second in order to drive the display clock.

In addition, an LM35 sensor provides the current room temperature.

http://mikeyancey.com/SB-630_console.php

Original WWVB decode source from http://duinolab.blogspot.com/2009/06/arduino-cmmr-6p-60-almost-accurate.html (Capt Tagon) and all others who’ve improved this code. Website seems abandoned, but the source code is good. My alteration is to remove the timer interrupt (1000 times a second) which operates the 1-second tick and replace it with the square wave output (SQWE) signal from the RTC chip, a Maxim DS1307.

Yet another Part 15, AM Transmitter

Yet another Part 15, AM Transmitter A Two-Tube AM Broacaster – 6GY6 Version.

Very fun to build and this one is turning out to have the best transmitted audio so far.

Updated: Revisited the original 6888 version which has already been updated with a 6AB4 pre-amp, shielded all the signal paths (audio and crystal oscillator) with RG-174 coax, and replaced the Tank (Antenna Coil) with the PI Output.

TrueTone Portable

I took a part of my day off to do a quick redo of <a href=”http://mikeyancey.com/TrueTone_refurb.php”>a TrueTone Portable</a>. Many thanks to <a href=”http://mikestute.com” target=”_blank”>Mike Stute</a> for giving me this one a couple of years ago, when I casually mentioned that my mom had had one of these.

Zenith Transoceanic – Y-600

Finished the <a href=”TO-Y-600_refurb.php”>TransOceanic Y-600</a>. This is a magnificent radio and turned out nicer than I could’ve expected. A fortunate turn on this model was that the 1L6 tube is in good shape. Although in fairly ready supply, the tube has reached ‘unobtainium’ prices, even though solid-state substitutes are available. In any case the 50A1 was replaced with a solid-state replacement, which provides very stable current and voltage regulation, which is a good thing given the expense of the 1L6 tube.

Heathkit HW-101

The <a href=”http://mikeyancey.com/HW-101_refurb.php”>HW-101</a> refurb is now complete. This seemed like an extensive redo, but was not, because many of the boards went mostly untouched. It began with a redo of the HP-23 power supply with an HP-23RL board from The Heathkit Shop. And it ended with replacement of two of the Carrier Oscillator crystals, which with age had changed too much to adjust with serial or parallel capacitance.

For kits anyway, this was the pinnacle – the tip-top. No one would ever make a 20-vacuum tube transceiver again.

Heathkit IG-102, Solid State Edition

I’d recently heard about a conversion of a tube Signal Generator to Solid State. I found the original article in a great old book called ’99 Test Equipment Projects You Can Build’, by 73 Magazine. I snagged the book from eBay for only $2.00 (plus shipping). My copy is a small hardback, red cover. Print’s kinda small.

Same article mentions adding a three-range (10khz, 1mhz, 10mhz) crystal calibrator on-board (since you now have boatloads of room inside without the tubes and the transformer).

Each ‘half’ of both tubes is replaced with a FET Pin numbers are mentioned, so you go underneath (unfortunately sticking the leads in the tube socket holes won’t work…) and solder a FET lead to a Socket Hole. I think there’s one socket hole (besides the filaments) that remains unconnected.

I’ve written on the schematic which FETs appear to work. I settled on MPF-102s, although I tested a couple of versions. The book project specifies four 2N5951’s.

An IG-102 FET Conversion Schematic

There are two resistor changes (actually mods) due to the lowered voltages:
Solder a 75 ohm resistor across the existing 33k (see left of ‘BF Front View’ switch.
Solder a 90 ohm resistor across the existing 4.7k (see above V2A 1/2 6AN8). On some models the existing resistor may be a 10k.

There are no other changes other than what’s marked at bottom of the schematic (removing the cord and power supply. Replace w/9V battery. I also did the fancy LED thing. Nice to know if it’s ON so you don’t run down the battery.

I also added a ‘wall wart’ plug for outside power. Fancy.

IG-102 FET Version – Tinkering with Tubes

I’d recently heard about a conversion of a tube Signal Generator to Solid State. I found the original article in a great old book called ’99 Test Equipment Projects You Can Build’, by 73 Magazine. I snagged the book from eBay for only $2.00 (plus shipping). My copy is a small hardback, red cover. Print’s kinda small.

Same article mentions adding a three-range (10khz, 1mhz, 10mhz) crystal calibrator on-board (since you now have boatloads of room inside without the tubes and the transformer).

Each ‘half’ of both tubes is replaced with a FET Pin numbers are mentioned, so you go underneath (unfortunately sticking the leads in the tube socket holes won’t work…) and solder a FET lead to a Socket Hole. I think there’s one socket hole (besides the filaments) that remains unconnected.

I’ve written on the schematic which FETs appear to work. I settled on MPF-102s, although I tested a couple of versions. The book project specifies four 2N5951’s.

IG-102 - FET
Schematic for the FET version of the Heathkit IG-102

There are two resistor changes (actually mods) due to the lowered voltages:
Solder a 75 ohm resistor across the existing 33k (see left of ‘BF Front View’ switch.
Solder a 90 ohm resistor across the existing 4.7k (see above V2A 1/2 6AN8). On some models the existing resistor may be a 10k.

There are no other changes other than what’s marked at bottom of the schematic (removing the cord and power supply. Replace w/9V battery. I also did the fancy LED thing. Nice to know if it’s ON so you don’t run down the battery.

I also added a ‘wall wart’ plug for outside power. Fancy.